Tuesday, October 11, 2011
Paris Fashion Week Spring Summer 2012: Vionnet
For Spring Summer 2012, Vionnet turned out yet another gorgeous salon-style show rife with exquisite dresses and separates; intimate, feminine and elegant, this season, the Vionnet woman looked towards an exploration of an "enchanted garden," the fictional stuff of little girls' dreams where, according to the show notes, "romanticism meets irony."
It was all very Secret Garden meets Great Expectations with a 1930's air mixed ever so slightly in, that is to say, a very feminine kind of luxurious fairytale, one where beautiful women in simple, yet delicately crafted dresses navigate the forgotten and overgrown recesses of hortensial beauty, rugged and rough round the edges, but still all abloom nonetheless.
The girls themselves were taken into the imaginary overgrown landscape, the soft, flowing silhouettes of their satin gowns cinched at the waist to create the turgid effect of luxuriant bud.
The romanticism of a nostalgic era bygone, or perhaps even one that never was, was updated for the 21st century woman's wardrobe via a play of electric colors like lime and "lobster orange" and unexpected detailing, such as an unconcealed zip adorning blouses and dresses.
Vibrant, all-over prints in the shape of corollas, bees and butterflies adorned the long black draped silk stretch georgette dress whose flowing, asymmetrical, flared sleeves unfolded to become an unexpected cape, a seductive glimpse of a bare-backed butterfly unfolding her crepe de chine wings. Echoing that effect, cocktail dresses sported hems that furled like a petal back unto themselves, including a collar that can be worn as a wrap-around stole.
Embellishment, hand-detailing and the interplay of adornment and fabric were key to the collection, fast becoming the calling card of the brand's resurrection, proving that the House of Vionnet's core DNA involves something other than mastery over the legendary bias cut. Rhinestones, beads and pearls were embroidered to form delicate floral motifs atop the sablé silk of a long, pistachio-coloured dress that falls softly over the shoulders.
Ribbon inserts edged with pearls evoking the sight of morning dew seemed to drip off the shoulders of gauzy, knee-length, tulle poudre dresses or long, trailing creations in white georgette, flower-printed chiffon and blue creponne. Bees, butterflies and ladybirds - jewel insects with diaphanous wings, provided the finishing touches, perching within the folds of liquid silk poplin, nesting delicately in models' braided hair or resting on the sweep of a flowing organza skirt.