Sarah Burton has done it again, a good job, that is. The McQueen menswear collection for Fall/Winter 2011 went the way of her womenswear Spring Summer, that is, McQueen through and through yet somehow reigned in and recast to be a bit more wearable.
Burton played with a few of Lee's telltale sartorial calling cards--big lines, asymmetrical cuts and almost caricature-like creations walked the runway. But these pieces, such as an enormous concoction of flannel checked shirts sewn into a poncho or Transylvanian cape, were interspersed amongst a collection full of elegantly tailored and PLAIN suits and gorgeously crafted outerwear (the opening blood red fur trimmed coat is heaven executed in wool).
Gone from the runway was Lee's obsession with sexualizing the model, both male and female, and pushing boundaries. All the boys were completely dressed, their faces unmasked and the closet thing to bondage was probably a pair of fitted white trousers. So for all the wearability injected into the brand, Ms. Burton continues to churn out strong collections adhering to the brand's DNA whilst still adding her own, slightly feminine (and certainly commercial) bent. Here's hoping (and, in all honesty, betting) that she keeps it up in a month's time when womenswear rolls around...
Despite the G-rated fashion theatrics, the die-hard McQueen man will find much in this collection to his liking. Impeccable tweed coats aside, a drummer boy military jacket (oh so McQueen) made it into the collection as did an array of graphic abstract prints screened onto silk tops, zip up hoodies and blazers.
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