"I work only sustainable fabrics and that's something its definitely fashion first. I wanted to show how ethical fashion could still be fashion, still be cool" --Julia Smith
You know that floppy knit rasta hat I haven't been seen without since late last decade? Well here's the story, correction, Style Whispering, behind my acquisition of my topper's newest BFF. Tis the knitted progeny of Julia Smith, a sustainable and ethical womenswear fashion brand which has risen from the runways of LFW's ON/OFF to undeniable high street success (her 'Made in Africa' diffusion label, a collection of hand printed dresses produced by a small co-operative in Ghana, launched in 2009 at Topshop and is going global in March).
I first met Julia last winter through my friend Phil during one of his routine London visits wherein he takes up residence at the Groucho and the rest of us follow tout suit, so this little visit to her Porchester Place shop (shared with remarkable shoe designer, Joanne Stoker) was a long time coming. Julia and Joanne actually won their retail space on account of their talent in a competition judged by their newfound mentor and visitor to the shop on the evening of the shoot--Jimmy Choo.
In a Copenhageny kind of way, Julia is the perfect designer with which to kick of Style Whispering for a new decade, that is...she is the darling of London's sustainable and ethical fashion labels, a trait of design which we will undoubtedly (and hopefully) see more and more of in the eco-conscious years to come. Just because we have to lessen our carbon footprint, doesn't mean it still can't come from a tasty five inch copper soled fierce stiletto.
Julia's mainline collections are made in England using only organic or sustainable fabrics that have been ethically sourced. Each piece is made from carefully selected materials including recycled polyester which is made from recycled plastic bottles, Scottish tweeds and wools (hand woven in Scotland), and organic cotton or alpaca yarns which are hand knitted into texture rich knits. Individual linings are from a selection of Julia’s designs which are all hand printed by a small co-operative in Ghana. Accessories include hairpieces, clutch bags, scarves and gloves which are either hand knitted or made using the wastage fabric in the studio.
4 Porchester Place London W2 2BS 020 7402 4758
This look was all about working the country and the comfy in a cool yet sophisticated way. I absolutely love this reversible sheepskin gilet, and thought it added a bit of rustic funk to the simple (albeit skin tight!) print dress. I could wear this gilet with absolutely everything, I love the swing cut...and just so snuggly. But the glam factor in this look is 100% down to the fab footwear. Knockout heels, paired with pretty much everything, including this cute little country girl with a fluff ball hat outfit, sexifies and fiercifies.
Look Two: Recycled, Rebottled and Rockin
Look two was a dress Julia selected for me. Ever conscious of the fact that a month of holiday marathon eating has left my tummy a bit to ravaged for the likes of fitted dresses, I tried to steer clear. But, once again, designer knows best, and once I slipped into it, I remembered that enormous shoulders mitigate mince pies and black is every girl's best friend come January. Perhaps in atonement for all the bottles of bubbly and vino consumed during the holiday season, this dress is made entirely from recycled plastic bottles, save for the hand printed textile lining inside.
You all know instantly how much I loved this walking, talking snuggle fest. It's like that jacket-blanket they're selling back home on infomertials, just prettier! It's like slipping into a fleecey cloud, I could have stayed in there forever. I loved accessorizing it with chunky knit accessories. And Joanne's copper soled shoes with that flash of metallic jazzed up the look just so. This is one of those dresses I would literally live in, dragging myself round London in it til its pure whiteness faded to grey, then nasty black. Imagine popping on a huge statement necklace...perhaps red beaded or something of the like...with this little number? I am officially in love...
since many of Joanne's shoes are made to order, the samples in the shop required some manner of reenacted foot-binding...here I am wincing (next to Joanne). ouch!
For this look, I was 100% literally and physically in Julia's creative space. As her studio is downstairs from the shopfloor, we descended with our portable studio to shoot in her actual design space. Mood boards plastered the wall, and bits and pieces of fabric hung from tables beneath silent sewing machines--no doubt about it, we were in the designer's lair. So into a strapless dress (the horror! the high school taped boob flashbacks!) I went. But to my surprise, instead of exposing the girls to the world at large when it plunged to my ankles, the pink silk frock worked a miracle: lo and behold...a bust!
I really really loved this laid back yet tailored look. Julia is well known for her masculine tailoring, and after slipping into these dream trousers, I see why. The cut is precise, the style flattering (mile long legs, hooray!) and the fit extremely comfortable. The blazer, aside from its impeccable and precise cut, was youthened up with the application of a button collage along the lapel. Cute, quirky and totally wearable separates.
The final look was about playing with Julia's staple knitwear basics. She told me that people didn't really go for them as they hung limply and somewhat blandly on the rail (compared to the other eye poppers around), but worked wonders when slipped onto the human form. Again, as designer knows best, she was right. There's nothing like a well made organic cotton basic to plump up one's wardrobe. But the key to her jersey basics was the draping and the fit. The little red dress came alive whence freed from its hanger, and could be worn with a grecian gather in the back, loose and unbelted (probably in summer to team with gladiators and huge sunnies) or belted and straightforward. One last piece I couldn't resist trying on, a plain dress in white...scoop back, screams SUMMERTIME, but I layered with knits (similar to the Hermione fleece wonder) to cozify for winter.
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