Wardrobe Reform Part III: Bag

For the final installment of my Wardrobe Reform series, I shall divulge my most dogged ailment, my damning "pre-existing" condition, let's call it Acute Bag-icitis, which, should it rear its ugly head again, will most likely prevent me from obtaining any other fashion coverage (i.e. any other new clothes) for at least 9-12 months. But like triple bypass surgery, I'm afraid it could be an unavoidable expense.

This time around, it's Alexander Wang's "Coco" duffel that has kicked my affliction into high gear. But there's nothing that can be done to stave it off and no over-the-counter high street treatment can make it go away: I absolutely have to have it. And I really don't care if the "it" bag is supposedly dead and gone forever or it's already been spotted on Mary Kate's minuscule arm, that abused leather, bullet-like studded bottomed bag and I have a date with destiny.

Coco really would be the perfect finale to my reform, completing my "universal" look. That bag has been designed specifically according to this exact principle. Wang's model "off duty" look, or that everyday coolness-cum-elegance which purports to be something that money can't buy (which, as the Coco demonstrates, it absolutely can) precisely underpins this notion of "universality" I've been looking for in my wardrobe update. That is to say, this idea that one piece of clothing so simple, so worn in and basic that it feels like something that always has--and always will--been a cherished part of your wardrobe. A fundamental component of your sartorial essence, it feels like you can wear it every single day a thousand different ways without getting sick of it. Or, in other words, savvy and chic dressing.

So take me off the waiting list for a kidney transplant and get me on the one for Barney's second Coco shipment...it's time to take my universally reformed wardrobe transatlantic!

Come on Barbie, let's go party

Life in plastic, it evidently is fantastic. First Vogue, then Colette, now her own music and dance video choreographed by JaQuel Knight, the fast feet behind Bizonce's smokin' hot "Single Ladies" video. Today, on her YouTube channel, Barbie premiers her first music video entitled "Do 'the Barbie'" to celebrate the launch of her new Barbie® Fashionistas™ dolls.

Shot in New York last month, the video stars three Barbie Fashionistas dolls, “Sassy,” “Cutie” and “Artsy" shamelessly lip-syncing a re-recorded version of Aqua's "Barbie Girl" complete with new lyrics. I would hope so, as mothers across the nation probably don't want their 8 year old girls "doing" the Barbie whilst belting out, "you can brush my hair, undress me everywhere, imagination, life is your creation."

In the video, the dolls bust out of their toy boxes --fulfilling a longstanding childhood fantasy of mine--and come alive to dance “The Barbie” alongside real, life-size Barbie dancers. And what Barbie video would be complete without a steamy cameo from “Hottie” Ken®? Three Barbies, one Ken--time to teach those young girls the tough reality of survival of the fittest.

“I have had the privilege of working with celebrities like Beyoncé and Britney Spears," said JaQuel, "and I am thrilled to add another B to the roster” Well, Mr. Knight, if you're so thrilled, why don't you put a pint-size plastic ring on it?

The Barbie® Fashionistas™ Dolls, £9.99, will be available internationally from October 2009.

Click here to watch JaQuel's instructional video

London is burnnnning

Photo by Marina Scukina

When Marina first told me she lobbied her way onto the guestlist for last night's launch event for the new "Music Inspired Art" Beck's Beer labels by telling the PR, "I'm interested in the relationship between beer and art," I couldn't help but suppress a chuckle. But after an evening of watching the interaction between music, illustration and, of course, beer, I could see that she, and indeed, Beck's is on to something. And that something, cheezily enough, is fun and good times for all.

In September, for a limited time, Beck's Beer will be revisiting their tradition of artistic collaborations (remember the Tracy Emin and Damien Hirst bottles?). But this time, "art" has broadened to include the avenue more palpable to beer drinkers everywhere, performance rather than visual, hot babes on the electric guitar instead of animal skeletons suspended in formaldehyde. This year's bottle muses (and one half of last night's entertainment) are bands of the moment Ladyhawke and Hard-Fi.

So last night, we made our way over to the East London's The Village Underground for bumpin' night of Ladyhawke live, local artists painting enormous bottle label style canvases and more Beck's than any fashionista on the verge of squeezing herself into some of this season's far out trends for the upcoming fashion weeks should ever contemplate consuming (goodbye, thigh high boots). Ladyhawke, whose music I was not aware I was familiar with until the opening strains of "Paris is Burning" triggered a massive and sudden exodus from outside's smoking area back towards the stage, carrying me right along with it.

But hey, it's definitely more than a little bit catchy...I daresay if it hadn't been for the CD handout at the exit featuring Ms. Hawke's bottle-inspiring cover art, I probably would have spent the first five minutes of this morning iTunesing it. Of course, the fact that Bert was humming the title track's refrain for the rest of the evening and forefronted the choice lyric on facebook this morning has nothing to do with it.

"My heart is yearning, but Paris is burning. Paris is burning all night long. Paris is burning. Paris is burning. Paris is burning...."

The labels

Bbert and Butters make a green entrance

Marina at work

Ladyhawke takes the stage

Butters and Bbert are burning

Photo by Marina Scukina

Photo by Marina Scukina

Photo by Marina Scukina

Wardrobe Reform Part II: Zara

As the battle over healthcare reform continues to rage on my home soil, so too does the quest for the perfect NY fashion week wardrobe here in London. Most recent development: a high street, guilt-ridden, fall fashion trend-fest at Zara.

Much like large American private insurance companies, Zara is a soul crushing, money sucking succubus of a corporation, "fashion factories" that rip off designer duds faster than the models can traipse them down the runway and are mobilized by underpaid little hands in unseen factories far far away.

While I'm not proud of my satiating my high street hunger, I blame it on the system. Since a wardrobe stocked full of this season's designer finest is no more feasible for me than, say, footing my own bill for extensive brain surgery, and I'm not willing to turn up at Bryant Park "uninsured," that is, without a single trend-driven piece of autumnal clothing upon my person "insuring" my coolness, the pandering mid-market middle man of the high street stands as my most obvious port of call.

So I gave in and plundered along with the rest, blood pressure climbing as racks of shoulder padded, studded and spiked goodies greeted me in the front of the High Street Ken store and a game of name-that-knockoff overrided my senses. I was able to hit many of autumn's trend high notes in one stop--studded leggings a la Alexander Wang and Balmain knock-off black tweed sharp-shouldered blazer, Stella McCartney black and white cheetah printed graphic sweater, Ralph Lauren wool camel oversized blazer and Victoria Beckham body-con sculpted shoulder secretary sheath.

But similar to the case of private insurers, just because the individual price tags seem small at first (couple hundred dollars a month for "full" health coverage, £90 for a Balmain lookalike blazer), by the time you add it all up, you might as well have just bought the Balmain itself.

Balmain jacket, back tweed and satin lapels, £90, studded leggings, £25

Blended wool camel oversized jacket, £95

Beige shoulder padded Victoria Beckham style shift, £69

Shoulder detail

Butters waiting patiently in bag as I try things on, priceless

And the hits keep on coming

Berardi AW09

When the going gets tough, it seems the tough get going straight back to the welcoming arms of London's sartorial scene. That JFK-LHR British Airways flight will literally transform into a flying tin can packed with the world's most stylish sardines come September 17 as yet another two international players are tossing their hats into the returners ring alongside Burberry, Williamson and others--Antonio Berardi and Sass & Bide.

Berardi launched his label fourteen years ago in London, but the Italian-born designer has been cavorting amongst the French ever since 2005. This is great news because now he can fix that dress of mine whose zipper erupted Queen-side at Ascot. I would also accept a frock from his new collection. Either way, his time of reckoning, as far as I'm concerned, has come.

Returning "home" like a true Italian feigning a love of the British pub way of life, Berardi has teamed with his native beer brand, Peroni, who will be sponsoring his show. As long as Peroni doesn't end up on my amazing cobalt blue silk Berardi number which is jumping for joy this very moment in my closet at the prospect of meeting its maker runwayside without having to cross the Channel, I won't complain.

Also staging a return is Aussie denim and ready-to-wear label Sass & Bide (the brand behind last year's smash hit wet-look "Black Rat" leggings). Time to show some Commonwealth love. The Aussie-duo behind the brand first showed in London in 2002 only to skip off across the Atlantic to NYC. Look who's skipping back now.

Well, Anna, aren't you glad you penciled us in en route to Milan after all?

The fashion amendment: the right to SHOP

Just call him Kenneth "Stimulus" Cole, as the designer is to launch a new campaign theme calling upon Americans to take up the case of fashion patriotism and bail out their nation's brands. "Pledge Allegiance to the Bag" Cole plans on calling it, beseeching Americans, "your country needs you...to shop." Damn right. One nation, under Ralph Lauren, with cable knit liberty and loafers for all.

The campaign will run in newspapers, store windows and on the company’s website. What's more, Cole also plans to take a bite out of national debt with a range of limited edition eco-friendly totes! Why didn't Bush ever think of that? Stylishly toting our way to recovery? That $12.9bn will be paid down in no time.

A spokeswoman said that the campaign will “remind consumers that shopping is not only their right, but also their patriotic duty.” So let's exercise that right, along with our credit cards and turn that recession frown upside down! Bravo, Kenneth!

Wardrobe Reform: Boots

Topshop, £90

While my fellow Americans back home may or may not be fretting over the contents of Obama's healthcare reform proposal, I have more important things to worry about--like what will be the contents of my suitcase bound for NY fashion week? Just like my commander in chief, I too am in the process of reform: universal wardrobe reform. I'm in search of a few key updates to my fall wardrobe for the New York shows, which I see as needs be easy to wear, mix n'match, day-to-night, working/partying/show-going--universal, if you will.

My proposal begins with shoes. Designer footwear, can be, in some ways, a bit like private healthcare: expensive, often detrimental to your health and riddled with hidden fall-backs. This year has seen the rise of the "it" shoe, sky-high sequined Louboutins, Louis Vuittons with the entire layout of Lego Land glued on top and now the advent of the sexy but totally impractical thigh high boot. But these shoes, while gorgeous to gawk at, aside from being totally impossible to walk in, also make quite the statement. And just like private insurance, once you tap into those resources, the arrangement completely changes...you no longer own the shoe, the shoe owns you. The newness and envy factor evaporates with the first outing (at least in the setting of a five day fashion Olympics, your repeat offense will most likely be noticed), and even though they may have cost you £600 and Gwenyth Paltrow was seen tottering about in a pair last month, they no longer work as coolness insurance.

That's why, despite the fact that I would gladly hand over a kidney for this fall's zipper adorned Balmain ankle boots, I shall practice what I preach and, for my main footwear purchase for the first round of shows, settle on the Abby Buckle Stud Peep Boot from Topshop, £90. Nobody cares if you wear the same sturdy, black ankle boots day in day out, and these ones are basic black with a twist.

On trend but not too much, channeling Zanotti, I see them going with the entirety of the wardrobe I have pre-assembled in my mind. Worn casually with acid wash jeans or leggings and an oversized vintage tee or after-party ready with some sort of sequined shift number or short, big shouldered dress cum blazer ensemble. And after giving the matter considerable thought, I can't really picture myself frantically scampering around Bryant Park wearing anything else.

Check back soon for the next phase of the agenda.

Butters' runway debut

Photos by Paula Harrowing

When mom's away the doggy will play--or, in our case, presumptuously make her way up onto her first runway without parental supervision. I turn my back on her for one second, ok four days, to plant myself on a Sardinian beach with my own mom only to return to find dogwalk pictures of my baby running amok on facebook! But what's done is done, Butters has been unleashed to the fashion world--there's no stopping her now.

Too bad I couldn't be there to see it, but my little one must have lit up the stage as my friend Lana (also looking lovely, I might add) toted her down Johnny Blueeyes' catwalk corset showcase at the launch of the Fashion and Textile Museum's "Undercover" exhibition. The exhibit chronicles the evolution of the underpant in its various incarnations, from health garment to fashion to personal sartorial signature. Highlights include an original Merry Widow corset inspired by Lana Turner, Immodesty Blaize’s corset a spectacular gown made from bras and briefs by designers Vin & Omi and a La Perla bra encrusted with Swarovski crystals.

Given that Butters' prefers to greet the world commando most days, I can't think of a better spokeswoman. Watch out modeling world, le tigre is soo over. It's all about le dogre now.

Butters backstage in hair and make-up

Charming their prints off

Yesterday, to crown the launch of Liberty's "Prints Charming" exhibition by holding court for its adoring subjects, the iconic department store put the call to fashionistas to storm the micro-floral-adorned Carnaby Street in a print walk off, with the winner receiving a proper Liberty print as a prize.

Though the number of micro-floral swathed fashionistas who turned up probably didn't exceed the number of individual flowers on a small swathe of fabric, when its masses of micro-print you're talking about, the troops don't have to be ten thousand strong to give the sense of entering into a three-dimensional textile "Magic Eye."

So here are some snaps, courtesy of my good friend Pat, of the scene (including an appearance of blogger extraordinaire, Suzy Bubble), winners, and, of course, the flowers.

Prints Charming is on until 8 September.

Photos by Pat Lyttle

Print master: the winning look

Runner up (left) and winner

Suzy Bubble

Illustrations of a Yorkshire Man: BBERT

You've seen him around town, gallivanting about looking like a piece of walking, talking vintage fashion art--with a thimble on each finger, or a broach made of wig hair, magic bag in tow, and thought to yourself, who is that? Some new fashion designer?

Exactly. It's BBert.

A Yorkshire man through and through, Bert, having worked as a butcher and engineer, never went in search of fashion...it simply found him. First inspired by Galliano, he completed his MA in Fashion Design at LCF in 2006, where he debuted a runway collection lauded by none other than Vogue...many of whose precisely tailored everything-zips-off to reveal multiple silhouettes-in-one have now made their way into my closet. It's all very Savile Row meets Galliano meets, well, Bert.

That's the thing about Bert, as a person and a designer, there's no one quite like him. His looks and pieces combine solid craftsmanship, which reflect a deep sartorial and historical understanding, with creative vision unbound. Each design tells its own story and has a personality of its own, be it affected through the combination of a stand-out print with sharply tailored angles or intricate layering of different fabrics and impeccable attention to detail. Bert's designs, along with his handmade jewelry (which is to debut this month), embodies that one of a kind, hand made feel--essentially harking back to the good old days when art was fashion, fashion art and the likes of McQueen, Chalayan and Galliano stalked the catwalks of London. Seems to me exactly, dare I say it, what this stymied industry needs.

So I hope you enjoy perusing some of my favorites of Bert's designs, watch this space for his jewellery collection coming soon! The designer can be reached for questions, comments or commissions on wearebbert@googlemail.com