South Molton Lane's Music Room, last week, was temporarily transformed into the Wonderful World of Vuitton for the brand's AW09 press day. And though I wasn't in the freshest of forms, less wide eyed and bushy tailed, more blue eyed and limpy tailed, there really is no ailment (or hangover) that a little Vuitton can't cure.
RTW
Self described as "frivolous, free-spirited and utterly French," the collection claimed the quintessential Parisienne of the flamboyant 1980s as its inspiration. Is Marc Jacobs reliving and reliving his heyday or what? I mean, I suppose if you are at the creative helm of the world's premier luxury brand as well as your own line and its ensuing diffusions, you are entitled to pick a tune, stick with it and belt it out as loud as you can for as long as you can--especially whence it continues to fly off the shelves and set the zeitgeit's pacemaker. But this is why Marc is Marc, is it not? His uncanny ability to turn every thing he touches into the epitome of downtown 80s cool with distinctly sophisticated execution is why we keep coming back for more.
Henceforth, the New Yorker's take on Parisian ultra-femininity, no matter how earnest, resulted in an exhilarating array of richly manipulated and embellished fabric, gathering and hand-fraying, shocking and destablizing injections of color--"everything came ruched and ruffled, frilled and flounced." And speaking of flounced, the runway models were topped off, literally, with giant floppy bunny ears. Perhaps a Jacobs comment on the recession--his sartorial prowess is such that he is able to pull a tiny pleated puff ball skirted bunny out of a gloom-ridden retail hat.
Self described as "frivolous, free-spirited and utterly French," the collection claimed the quintessential Parisienne of the flamboyant 1980s as its inspiration. Is Marc Jacobs reliving and reliving his heyday or what? I mean, I suppose if you are at the creative helm of the world's premier luxury brand as well as your own line and its ensuing diffusions, you are entitled to pick a tune, stick with it and belt it out as loud as you can for as long as you can--especially whence it continues to fly off the shelves and set the zeitgeit's pacemaker. But this is why Marc is Marc, is it not? His uncanny ability to turn every thing he touches into the epitome of downtown 80s cool with distinctly sophisticated execution is why we keep coming back for more.
Henceforth, the New Yorker's take on Parisian ultra-femininity, no matter how earnest, resulted in an exhilarating array of richly manipulated and embellished fabric, gathering and hand-fraying, shocking and destablizing injections of color--"everything came ruched and ruffled, frilled and flounced." And speaking of flounced, the runway models were topped off, literally, with giant floppy bunny ears. Perhaps a Jacobs comment on the recession--his sartorial prowess is such that he is able to pull a tiny pleated puff ball skirted bunny out of a gloom-ridden retail hat.
Accessories
We all know that with LV it's ALL about the accessories. In the brand's nearly 150 years of existence, only since 1999 have they sent models traipsing down catwalks and stocked their stores with racks of ready to wear. This season's accessories are a real testament to Jacobs' strength as a designer, his reinventions of the classic house's staple prints, fabrics and designs are seemingly endless, with each turn round the LV carousel more exciting than the next. Sorry Sprouse, the kid's got you beat. The unifying theme of the padlock was ripped off from Chloe years past (or returned to LV as they did have them way first) and fetishized. Embellished onto deerskin clutches and featuring as cinching centerpieces on key jewellery pieces, such as chunky chain necklaces painted with matte lacquer to look like brightly coloured paper (or even rubber) but in actuality were a form of heavy ceramic.
On the bag front (to come to monogram specifics later), iconic LV shapes, like the Speedy, Alma and Noe, were dressed up for evening and the eighties. Canvas monogram was overlaid with gold sequins and embossed calfskin bags appeared to have devoured smaller bags, with a faux second inner bag spilling over in a grained Epi leather inspired fabric, giving new meaning to the term "Neverfull."
But, oh, the footwear. Those boots I drooled over in Vogue's cupboard last week, in a plenitude of manifestations--those pearl detailed inverted cone heels, I've officially fallen victim. They might even unseat YSL's Eiffel Tower cage ankle boots from SS09 as my patron saint of worship du jour. From coquettish quasi-Marie Antoinette ankle-tie pumps in patchwork lace to luxe brocade thigh-high lace-up boots, the footwear was meant to compliment the runway models' ironically large pearl hairpins securing their spectacular chignons, reworking the motif at floor-level. From tip to toe, the LV AW09 woman is as immaculately accessorized as ever.
Monogram
In the classic monogram range, this season (actually pretty much available now in stores), LV returned to its classic roots of outfitting the high flying seasoned traveler and brought back personal monogramming. For a mere £150 or thereabouts, you can have any monogrammed canvas bag, wallet, doggy tote or army of steamers with your initials arranged any which way and in a rainbow of colors. And since we all know that an LV purchase, unless you are a particularly violent wearer of handbags or have perpetual butterfingers, is generally for life. Or at least a few decades. That said, with the return of investment dressing to the forefront of the recessionista zeitgeist, since you may only be investing in the one bag this season (It bags are forever dead and gone anyway), might as well go the extra mile and personalize it. At least 20 years from now, such a brash declaration of ownership may dissuade your offspring from pillaging your bag collection and pinching your love-worn Speedy. Not that my mother's premeditated carving of NTK into her (now discontinued and vintage) Louis Vuitton satchel ever kept me at bay. No matter how much things change, they always stay the same.
Vintage trunk with original monogram
In the classic monogram range, this season (actually pretty much available now in stores), LV returned to its classic roots of outfitting the high flying seasoned traveler and brought back personal monogramming. For a mere £150 or thereabouts, you can have any monogrammed canvas bag, wallet, doggy tote or army of steamers with your initials arranged any which way and in a rainbow of colors. And since we all know that an LV purchase, unless you are a particularly violent wearer of handbags or have perpetual butterfingers, is generally for life. Or at least a few decades. That said, with the return of investment dressing to the forefront of the recessionista zeitgeist, since you may only be investing in the one bag this season (It bags are forever dead and gone anyway), might as well go the extra mile and personalize it. At least 20 years from now, such a brash declaration of ownership may dissuade your offspring from pillaging your bag collection and pinching your love-worn Speedy. Not that my mother's premeditated carving of NTK into her (now discontinued and vintage) Louis Vuitton satchel ever kept me at bay. No matter how much things change, they always stay the same.
Vintage trunk with original monogram
Watches
In terms of customization, the Mystérieuse puts the canvas monogram to shame. Why personalize with paint when you can personalize with diamonds? From a vast spectrum of possibilities, each personality summons its own reflection; yellow, white, or red gold or platinum…diamonds, rubies, or sapphires…brilliant or baguette cut. The watch’s oscillating rotor can be inlaid with one’s own initials, golden marquetry on an unseen sapphire heart.
Now, no watch so exquisite, especially one produced within the Wonka-land recesses of Vuittondom, could come complete without it's own genuine trunk. That's right folks, a special watch needs a special box. With more amenities than the Ritz Place Vendome, the Chateau Mystérieuse is also completely customizeable (from the choice of leathers to the lining’s colour; even the LV lock can have a number matching that of other personally embossed luggage pieces). It even comes complete with its own hand winder and secret compartments for the mistrusting billionaire to squirrel away his invisible movemented friend. Good thing one of these bad boys take a year to manufacture, so even if you order one now, there still may exist a chance that the economy too will retreat into its own little personalized case, wind itself up and work some Mystérieuse of its own allowing you to actually afford it.
Mmm, polished stingray wristband
Home sweet home
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