Antje Geczy

One rainy tube-striking afternoon this spring, I took shelter at Brown's hotel and kept warm by the light of the jewels of new designer, Antje Geczy. Originally from Germany, Antje moved to Paris to study fashion design at the Ecole de La Chambre Sydicale de la Couture Parsienne thence to the ateliers of Christian Lacroix and Karl Lagerfeld. And it shows, as her line definitely demonstrates a deep sartorial awareness and understanding of the necessary dialogue between clothes and accessories. Her first two collections, "Secret Garden" and "Modernist," both exude a wholly wearable yet simultaneously red carpet ready kind of classic elegance, while the aesthetic feel of each range is entirely different. I caught up with the lovely and talented Antje over a cup of tea to learn more about her high fashion background, striking out on her own and the Kabiri-bound baubles sparkling on display around us.

CW: You began your career in fashion working at Christian Lacroix and then moved to Chanel. What were you doing there are what made you realize you wanted to design jewellery and do you think your experiences at those houses influence your work?
AC: At Christian Lacroix I was assistant in the Couture studio and had to help with fittings, liaison between ateliers and design studio and getting prepared for the fashion shows. At Chanel I was assistant to Karl Lagerfeld and Gilles Dufour, responsible for Couture and Ready to Wear accessories such as gloves, sunglasses...it was at Chanel that I got very interested in accessories especially jewellery as there was always a link to Fine Jewellery at Chanel…its where I learned to appreciate pearls. From Lacroix, I got my love of colours and the playfulness.

CW: How do you feel about Lacroix's recent declaration of bankruptcy?
AC:I am so disappointed that Christian Lacroix declared bankruptcy because at the time it was an absolutely magical place to work and every fashion student's dream. Unfortunately, Christian's creations were dreamlike and his ready to wear didn't find a place in the real world (except for his Haute Couture which was sold to only the very lucky few).

CW: How long have you been designing jewellery? When did you launch your own line?
AC: I have been designing jewellery for three years and originally began by making unique pieces for myself and friends only. The business has organically grown from small shows, over to having launched two collections, Secret Garden and Modernism at a gallery show at David Gill Gallery in November of last year, to now having talks with stockists in London.

CW: Please describe your design ethos or aesthetic, what is your vision and how do you feel you actualize it? Do you have a signature detail or material or any other nuance which marks a piece as distinctly Antje Geczy?
AC: I like my jewels to be "Serious Fashion Jewellery" or fine jewellery that is playful. I therefore use semi-precious or precious stones in unusual shapes or mixed in an unusual way. I particularly like pearls in hues from gold, over pistachio to black Tahitians and I combine them with large beryls or aquamarines. Pearls are probably a key element to my jewellery.

CW: The runway collection you did for Nina Ricci...how did you become involved with her? Are you planning to collaborate with any more designers in the future?
AC: I still am very intrigued by fashion and I follow closely what my friends do in the fashion world. That is how I got involved with doing pieces for Nina Ricci under Lars Nilsson who is a very dear friend of mine. He has since left the house and has moved on to new projects. I think I will always stay close to fashion and my jewellery reflects this. I would therefore love to collaborate again with a fashion house. It is very exciting to "bounce" back ideas with another creative person.

CW: Please tell me about the current collection, where did you get your inspiration for it? The process? The materials?
AC: My creative process commences with sourcing an inspirational stone because an asymmetrical stone or an unusually cut stone will then dictate a certain setting and a specific shape for a piece. South Sea pearls are among the stones with which I prefer to work. Pearls come in a variety of colours from white to gold, pistachio and black. So pearls adapt well to a variety of skin tones. And wearing pearls delivers a lovely sensation - they feel so soft and warm next to the skin. I also use small diamonds to add “sparkle” to my pieces but I try to avoid the "Estate Jewellery" look. As for the collections, they are very different yet complimentary. One day, a woman might wear a summer dress, high heels and a piece from Secret Garden, while the next day she might flaunt a cuff from Modernism with jeans, flats and a great jacket.

CW: What’s next?
AC: As I was saying earlier, I am in negotiations with stores to have my collection stocked in London which is exciting. I am also working on a new collection to be presented by the end of the year.Other projects include working with a fashion house, being stocked in the USA and opening my own showroom in London.

Secret Garden

Modernist